Talsi Travel Guide – Latvia’s Nine-Hilled Natural City

Talsi... a city so small you might miss it when you first glance at a map of Latvia, but once it's etched in your heart, you'll never forget it. You know how some places offer a peace that even larger cities can't? Talsi is just that.

This small town, located in the Kurzeme region of western Latvia, is built on nine hills and surrounded by two lakes. As you stroll along the lakeshore, get lost among the wooden houses, or climb a hill to quietly admire the view, you might find yourself wishing this were my town.

About a two-hour drive from Riga, Talsi is the perfect getaway for those looking to escape the crowds, reconnect with nature, and get a feel for local Latvia.

If you are ready, let me tell you about Talsi in full detail — not just to see, but to live…

Talsi Overview

Talsi, known as Latvia's "city of nine hills," is located in western Latvia, not far from the Baltic Sea. With a population of approximately 9,000-10,000, it's a small, quiet town with plenty of character.

At first glance, you realize that nature and human intervention have achieved a beautiful harmony. Lakes, green hills, colorful flowers, and wooden houses scattered throughout...

This isn't your typical tourist town; it's more of a paradise for travelers who appreciate nature, quiet, fresh air, and local life.

Talsi doesn't have large shopping malls, chain restaurants, or a bustling nightlife. But it does have a little bit of everything: a lakeside cafe where you can sip your coffee, a town center where you can stroll along narrow stone streets, and forest paths where you can stroll to the sound of birdsong.

So the city is small but full of life.

The Story of Talsi: City of Hills and Lakes

Talsi has a long history. According to archaeological excavations, the area has been inhabited since the 10th century. The old castle hill, known as "Pilskalns," or "Hillfort," holds a significant trace of the city's past.

In the Middle Ages, it served as a trading post, and by the 19th century, it had become a culturally developed settlement. The strong presence of Latvian folk music, handicrafts, and folkloric activities stems partly from that era.

Walking around the center of Talsi today, you still feel traces of this past. Many of the wooden houses have been restored but retain their original character. As you walk through the narrow streets, every corner resembles a painting where past and present intertwine.

Places to Visit in Talsi

Talsi may be a small city, but it has a surprisingly large number of attractions. Each one offers a unique experience. Here are my must-see spots:

1. Talsi Hillfort (Pilskalns Hill)

This is one of the first places where Talsi was founded. This hill, home to the ruins of a historic castle, is also the best spot to enjoy panoramic views of the city.

If you set out early in the morning, the mist slowly rises from the lake, transforming the city into a fairytale scene. The silence and the view from the top create a strange sense of peace.

2. Talsi Lake (Talsu ezers)

Located right in the middle of the city, the lake is arguably the heart of Talsi. It's surrounded by walking paths. You can sit on the benches and read a book, watch the birds, or simply enjoy the tranquility of the water.

In winter, when it freezes over, locals skate. In summer, you'll see families picnicking on the edge.

3. Vilkmuiža Lake and Park

Vilkmuiža, Talsi's second lake, is a slightly more nature-focused area, perfect for hiking, birdwatching, or taking nature photos.

There are long walking routes, forest paths, and small wooden piers leading down to the water's edge. It's an incredible experience, especially in the early morning when the fog dances across the lake.

4. Talsi History and Art Museum

A museum where you can experience the history, traditions, and artistic life of Talsi all in one place. Small but impressive, the exhibits feature traditional Latvian handicrafts, historical photographs, and works by local artists.

This is also a great stop for those who want to get to know Latvian culture better.

5. Sauleskalns Hill (Sun Hill)

The name suggests it—this is the place where the sun sets most beautifully. If you want to watch the sunset in Talsi, this is the place to be. The lake and the city are bathed in a golden light, creating a picturesque landscape.

Grab a thermos of coffee, go up to the top, sit down, and just watch. Time stands still here.

6. Lielā Street and the Old Town

The heart of Talsi beats on Lielā Street, home to boutique shops, small cafes, local bakeries, and handmade gift shops.

This street, lined with wooden houses, is also a great place for photography enthusiasts. During the summer months, local music events and small street festivals are held.

Food and Drink: Talsi's Delicious Simple Cuisine

Latvian cuisine is simple but filling. One of the best things I had in Talsi was the "grey peas with bacon." The tiny grey peas are served with plenty of fried bacon—salty, crispy, and delicious.

Local fish varieties are also quite popular. Smoked trout and smoked herring are especially worth a try. It's always accompanied by rupjmaize (a type of bread), a staple of Latvian cuisine.

The cafes are a whole other pleasure. Finding a small, quiet cafe by the lake and sipping your coffee... That's the recipe for happiness in Talsi.

For dessert, you should try the local carrot and cinnamon tart called "Sklandrausis." It's sweet but not overly sweet; it's both traditional and light.

Accommodation in Talsi

There aren't any big hotel chains in Talsi, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. On the contrary, the places you'll stay here are generally warm, local, and full of character.

You can find guesthouses , small boutique hotels or lakeside accommodation options close to the city center .

A suggestion: If you love nature, consider renting a house with a lake view. Waking up in the morning and sipping your coffee while the steam rises from the lake's surface is an indescribable experience.

Transportation and City Tours

The easiest way to get from Riga to Talsi is by bus. There are regular services from Riga Bus Station to Talsi; the journey takes approximately two hours.

Once you arrive in Talsi, the town is small enough to explore on foot. Climbing the hills can be a bit tiring, but the views are worth the effort.

Bicycle rental is also available. Several rental points open in the city during the summer months, and cycling around the lake is especially enjoyable.

Activities to Do in Talsi

Morning walk by the lake
Climbing Sauleskalns Hill at sunset
Visit local art exhibitions at the Talsi museum
Wandering around the handicraft shops in the old town
Attending summer festivals
Go camping or hiking in nature
Taking photos—lakes and hills in particular make for great framing.
Trying Latvian coffee and desserts at local cafes
Watch people ice skating on the lake in winter or try it yourself!

Talsi Experience by Season

Spring: Trees blossom again, the fog lifts from lakes, and nature comes alive. It's a wonderful time for spring walks and photography.
Summer: The city's liveliest time. There are lakeside picnics, musical events, and open-air concerts.
Autumn: Perhaps Talsi's most beautiful state. The leaves turn yellow, bathing the city in a golden hue. A photographer's paradise.
Winter: Lakes freeze over, smoke rises from house chimneys. The city falls silent, but this silence carries a captivating peace.

Talsi Travel Guide – Latvia’s Nine-Hilled Natural City